Friday, January 23, 2015

Marmalade is not just for Breakfast

It is the time of year when I am lured into making marmalade. Those tart seville oranges will not be around for long and before I have even checked what marmalade reserves I have left from the year before, there are a couple of kilo of oranges in my shopping basket. Back home as I rummage around for empty jam jars I realise they are all in still in use with last year's jams, and yes last year's marmalade.  I rarely make toast for breakfast on work days, just at weekends  and as each summer I also make blackcurrant and raspberry preserves with fruit from the garden, all too often there is a far greater supply of preserves than demand.
So this is a post about using marmalade any way other than on toast for breakfast, and is dedicated to anyone like me who has some 'vintage' marmalade in their cupboards that they really should find a way to use, if only to free up some jars that will facilitate the jam making habits they cannot shake off.
My all time favourite recipe for reducing the marmalade mountain is bread and butter pudding. If you  have eaten bread and butter pudding before, and did not like it, think back, was it made from the very low cost supermarket packaged bread? For this dish you really need slightly stale, ie at least a day old, traditional bread or buns, that absorb the custard mix without losing their structure. You can make the dish in quite small amounts very successfully which is another reason I am fond of making it.
Marmalade Bread & Butter Pudding
I never weigh out ingredients for bread and butter pudding and you will find quite a range of recipes with some using a lot of cream, some far fewer eggs, lots more sugar than I have used etc. You really can fashion this to your own tastes. If you are skipping the marmalade then do sprinkle each layer with caster sugar as you place the bread into the baking dish. If you are using sweetened buns or bread then I would  not add in any extra sugar.

For 4 servings

6 slices of stale bread (about 160g), crusts removed, lightly buttered and spread with marmalade
400 ml full fat milk
4 eggs
pinch of cinnamon or allspice or nutmeg (optional)
50g sultanas or raisins or chopped dried apricots or chopped candied ginger

1 tsp caster sugar to sprinkle on top.

buttered shallow baking dish
Oven temp: 160C/320F/Gas3

After buttering and spreading marmalade onto each slice of bread cut these into quarters or smaller and build up layers in your buttered baking dish sprinkling in the sultanas or raisins etc as you go. If you are going light on the marmalade and have a preference for sweet desserts you may want to sprinkle in about a teaspoon or two of caster sugar along with the sultanas.

Whisk the milk and eggs together and pour over the bread. Now leave this to soak in for 30 minutes.
Sprinkle the top lightly with the caster sugar and place into an oven preheated to 160C/320F/Gas3 and bake for 30-40 minutes until puffed up and set. If the pudding has not turned golden on top then place under a hot grill just to caramelize the top.
The pudding will be nicely puffed up when it first comes out of the oven by will drop back down as it cools.

My favourite accompaniment is whisky custard (instant version:  packet of prepared custard into which you have stirred in a couple of tablespoons of whisky just before serving).

You can posh this up rather by using an enriched type of bread and plenty of cream such as in this Nigella's creamy brioche version which would also work well with Pannetone, if you have one left over from Christmas.

The classic French Toast has very similar ingredients to bread and butter pudding and makes a tasty weekend breakfast dish which is equally as acceptable as a dessert in my book. Here is another Nigella recipe  for a version that includes orange zest and cinnamon in the egg mixture and is served with an orange and marmalade syrup: Orange French Toast with Marmalade Syrup

I used a pinch of allspice instead of the cinnamon and made my syrup with just marmalade and fresh orange juice. The marmalade peel was sieved out in my case as all my home made marmalade has quite thick pieces of peel. If you have a thin cut marmalade, as specified, then I doubt you would want to sieve it out. Again I warn you not to use supermarket bread as you will get a much more pleasing texture from a traditionally made loaf.
Moving onto my favourite subject of cake:
Dan Lepard's Marmalade Flapjacks are also offer a quick and easy way to use up your marmalade mountain though I made these with golden syrup instead of black treacle specified and used a light brown sugar instead of dark. You could easily omit the raisins or substitute them with chopped apricots or chopped dates if you have too many of those left after Christmas.
Another rather flavoursome bake is Marmalade & Ginger Cake from Kate Weatherell's book 'Sugar & Spice'
This is a cake I made last year for a Cake Club meeting with the theme of 'Breakfast'. The original recipe has an orange and ginger glaze but I used a fondant icing and candied ginger.

90g butter
150g golden syrup
200g orange marmalade
240g self raising flour
4stp ground ginger
2 tsp ground cinnamon
2 large eggs
120ml milk
2tbs dark rum (optional)

Orange & Ginger icing
200g sieved icing sugar or powdered fondant sugar
1-2 tbs orange juice or ginger cordial or water
finely grated zest of half an orange
chopped candied stem ginger to decorate

Oven temperature: 170C/325F/gas mark 3
20cmx30cm deep cake tin lined with parchment paper

Sift the flour and spices into a mixing bowl.
Measure the milk into a jug and add the eggs whisking to break them up.
Melt the butter and syrup in a pan.
Stir the marmalade into the butter/syrup mixture and take off the heat.
Add the marmalade mixture to the flour and stir in.
Add the milk/egg mixture and rum to the bowl and stir again to mix well.
Pour this quite runny mixture  into the cake tin and bake for 30 minutes or until a cake tester pierced into the centre comes out clean.
Turn out cake onto a rack to cool.

To decorate
Place the sieved icing sugar into a bowl and add the grated zest.
Now add the liquid gradually until you obtain a fairly thick but pourable icing.
Carefully pour the icing over the top of the cake spreading with a palette knife to get an even cover.
Sprinkle over the chopped candied ginger while the icing is still wet.

Moving onto a savoury recipe now which I was at first quite skeptical that I would like but Diana Henry's Marmalade glazed chicken drumsticks was very simple and a really well balanced mix of sweet and spicy.
The chicken joints are baked in a marinade of  mild flavoured marmalade, fresh orange, mustard, garlic and chilli. I must be greedy as I would want more than the two drumsticks per person given in the recipe and I was tempted into using chicken thighs as well as drumsticks as they are my favourite part of the chicken.

Finally out with a bang. This rather fabulous rather strong cocktail is Hawksmoor's marmalade cocktail

Do follow the link for full instructions but here are the ingredients which are shaken over ice in a cocktail shaker and then strained into whatever glass shape you fancy
1 tsp Seville orange marmalade
50ml  gin
5ml Campari ( I had to swap this for a red vermouth and used extra orange bitters to compensate)
15ml lemon juice
a dash of orange bitters
a twist of orange peel to serve
Chin Chin!

Saturday, January 3, 2015

Kitchen Diary #9 Spicy Soup for Soggy Saturdays

The weather has been cold and wet rather a lot over Christmas and New Year and coupled with having a niggling cold that has dulled my sense of taste the most appealing food I can offer right now is a spiced up chicken and noodle soup. The 'spice' came from a jar of Laksa paste which you can find in quite a few supermarkets and I quite like the Malay Taste brand though I use far less than they suggest on the jar. I am not going to even try and write this out as a recipe as I didn't measure anything while I made it. With apologies to Laksa purists the gist of the soup is:

Chicken stock about 2/3 of total liquid
Low fat coconut milk about 1/3 of total liquid
Some cooked chicken meat torn into spoon size pieces
Laksa paste
Cooked rice noodles or buckwheat noodles
A vegetable - I just used frozen sweetcorn but pak choi is good or beansprouts
Lime juice
Basil or coriander leaf

Cook the noodles first until just done then drain.
Put about a teaspoon of laksa paste per person into a saucepan and gently fry the paste.
Add in the chicken stock and the chicken meat and bring up to a simmer.
Add the vegetable and cook until just done.
Add the noodles and heat through quickly.
Add the coconut milk and bring back to a simmer.
Add lime juice to taste (about half a lime for 2 people).
Serve immediately into deep bowls and garnish with herbs and serve extra chilli flakes on the side.

Tomorrow the Christmas tree and decorations will be taken down and put away so here is a last glimpse of some of my favourite ornaments:
This cheeky baby dragon glass bauble came for Krakow and by some miracle survived the journey home to the UK.
The jester was bought over 20 years ago in Germany.
This glass bauble is hand blown by a local craftsman Malcolm Sutcliffe, they have a fabulous range which can be bought online.
Some of the ingredients associated with Christmas baking are jewels in their own way and I love these candied clementines which get added to various fruited breads and cakes
This is a cardamom fruited loaf which makes a tasty Christmas breakfast with good coffee.
I didn't get the fruit so evenly distributed mind.
This heavily fruited pull apart loaf is my alternative to the traditional mince pie. I make a fairly traditional mincemeat, but without any suet, and then incorporate loads of it into an enriched dough. Small balls of the fruited dough are then assembled in a loaf pan and baked. It 'pulls apart' readily once cooled but still looks like a loaf.
After several days of festive food the simple things start to appeal and this breakfast of 'Drambuie' porridge is one of my favourite winter weekend breakfasts. We were first served this many years ago at a hotel in the Lake District and it has remained a firm favourite ever since. Make your porridge as normal and serve, then pour over a good slurp of Drambuie. My formula for porridge is one cup porridge oats (not jumbo) one cup milk, one cup water, pinch of salt and sugar to taste. Cook all that until the porridge turns volcanic and gloopy!. Pour into warmed bowls and serve with milk/cream, Drambuie and extra sugar if you like.

Despite, or perhaps because of, the gloomy weather my thoughts have turned to planning next summer's vegetable patch and I was delighted to receive some seeds only a couple of days after ordering from Somerset company  Pennard Plants. They specialize in heritage varieties and the seed packets are just gorgeous.
I was particularly delighted to find they sell chervil root seeds.
My chickens are looking forward to sampling the lettuce mix too.
And if I can keep the frosts out of the conservatory I may even get to sample some home grown kumquats.

Wishing you all a Happy New Year from a very wet North Devon!

Wednesday, December 3, 2014

Kitchen Diary #8 My Home Made Christmas Chocolates

For the last week and a bit I have been making quite a few of my Christmas chocolates.  I have been dabbling for quite a few years now at making my own chocolates and have bought some toys over the years to try and make production a little easier and more reliable. Notably the chocolate melters that hold the chocolate at the right temperature and a range of polycarbonate moulds to make all those pretty shapes you see in the chocolate shops.
When I started out making chocolates the moulds were not available in shops but recently I have seen some in Lakeland and even Ikea now has a few for sale. Most of mine came second hand from ebay or from chocolate wholesalers.
If you are thinking of getting into chocolate making seriously then a good starting place for supplies in the UK is the home chocolate factory website. They sell equipment and a basic range of chocolate couvertures to work with. If you want to purchase some of the higher quality chocolate makes then take a look at the chocolate trading company. There are some quite technical books available by skilled chocolatiers such as Peter Grewelling from the US and William Curley and Paul A Young, from the UK.

There is nothing like watching a technique being done and you can find numerous YouTube clips by professional chocolatiers that are really useful.  In the early stages I learnt a huge amount following the chocolate making threads on the US website egullet. The members of the egullet community are incredibly supportive and very quick to answer any questions, and to share recipes.  Here is a link to the pastry & baking forum. To post you have to be signed up but I really think it is worth it. There are numerous courses to be found and I started out at a one day taster course at my local technical college. If you are going to spend a lot of money on a course try to find one where the group size is small and where you will have plenty of time to get help from the tutor.
To get professional results with chocolate you have to learn to 'temper' the chocolate. If you just quickly melt and use chocolate, much of the cocoa butter contained in the chocolate will set into a form that produces a cloudy bloom on the surface and the chocolate will not have a nice snap to it when set. It may even feel grainy or fudge like when you eat it. To get the chocolate to set with a nice snap and a good silky finish you have to control the temperatures that you melt and then hold the chocolate at while you are working with it. I use the seeding method of tempering chocolate as I am way too messy and clumsy to work with the traditional 'tabling' of pools of chocolate on a marble slab. The seeding method lets you heat the main portion of chocolate to a temperature high enough to melt all of the cocoa butter, and then you cool it rapidly by adding in enough already tempered chocolate and stirring slowly until the pot reaches the desired temperature (dark 31-32C/milk 30C/white 29C). There is a fairly humorous description of the different methods of tempering chocolate in this Hope & Greenwood extract published by the Guardian.
You will need a thermometre that is graduated in 1 degree C intervals and that is accurate in the 25-50C temperature range. Once the chocolate is at the right temperature it needs to be held there, which is where a melter is really useful. You must keep stirring the chocolate and testing the temperature, nudging the heat up or down as needed. Well tempered chocolate shrinks slightly when it sets which is how you get the chocolates out of the moulds (or not!). If it does not shrink enough you can find yourself banging the moulds quite physically to get them out. I am not very good at moulding figures; so often they crack or get huge air bubbles on their noses but I do like this snowman so I like to make a few of these.

Working with chocolate can be messy so make sure there is nothing near by that cannot be wiped clean. When you are tapping moulds to remove air bubbles or drain out excess chocolate it is surprising how far little splashes of melted chocolate can fly around your kitchen.

For piping the fillings into the chocolate shells I use those plastic disposable piping bags. In an emergency I have used a plastic bag with one corner cut off but that is much harder to control.  Most of the fillings I make are based on a truffle mix of chocolate, cream, flavouring/alcohol and glucose/invert sugar. I also really like flavoured caramel centres. Once the fillings are piped into the moulds they have to be left to set and form a dry surface, usually overnight. The next day you temper some more chocolate and then pour a backing layer over the fillings. Once this has set properly you can turn out your chocolates.
Buying packaging in small quantities is very expensive so I usually just present chocolates in cellophane bags but boxes can display them much better.
I have tried some new recipes this year a couple of which are off the internet. From Paul A Young this Prune & Porter truffle was really quite unusual. Here is a link to a clip of Paul A Young doing a Prune and Porter promotional truffle demo during which he shows all the stages including table top tempering. It really is a joy to watch someone so skilled handling chocolate so effortlessly though he does talk rather a lot about prunes to start with! The second recipe was for a sichuan pepper and orange truffle that had a really spicy kick and would suit those fans of chilli and chocolate.
Soft Caramel Milk Chocolate Lanterns
Hand chocolate making is time consuming but at Christmas it always seems worth it and packages of home made chocolates make perfect gifts.

Sunday, November 30, 2014

Spice Trail Challenge: Pepper

I couldn't decide what to cook for Vanesther's latest Spice Trail Challenge which this month is focused on Pepper so in the last few weeks I have been playing with a range of dishes where pepper is a predominant flavouring, and loving every one. The dish I have finally chosen to feature though is Cambodian Green Peppercorn Prawns, a variation on a dish that would traditionally be made with soft shell crab and which uses fresh green peppercorns which I bought at an asian market.
I took a lot of my inspiration from Rick Stein's book Far Eastern Odyssey which has a whole section on Cambodia and where according to the author some of the finest pepper is produced, in the area around Kampot. I love this book and have cooked many recipes from it that are now favourites, it is one of the last ones I would give up if space became limited.
Rick Stein̢۪s Far Eastern Odyssey
 I was delighted to find Kampot pepper could be ordered in the UK from The Spicery online spice shop and promptly put in an order for that and several other pepper spices.
I really like the small sampler packs you can order, as sometimes you know you just want a tiny amount. I did order full size packs of the two black peppers though, and have been delighted and surprised by how fragrant they are. My early memories of black pepper involved nasty stale tubs of powdered stuff liberally sprinkled on overcooked cabbage. It put me off pepper for a long time.
The packaging from The Spicery is really attractive and would make a nice present of any order. They also do monthly spice packs which include recipe cards and the website is full of useful information and inspiration. I particularly like the Spice Travels section and they are based in Bristol which is one of my favourite cities.

So as soft shell crabs are not so easily available in rural North Devon I hunted around for an alternative and found this recipe for  Green Peppercorn Prawns on the UK  Channel 4 website which was part of the 2012 series 'Spice Trip'. There is also a book of the series titled Spice Trip written by Stevie Parle and Emma Grazette.
Kampot Green Pepper Prawns
Serves 2
1-2 tsp vegetable oil for frying
2cm piece peeled ginger root finely chopped
1 large clove garlic thinly sliced
250-300g large peeled and deveined prawns
1 tbs fresh green peppercorns or pickled green peppercorns rinsed
3-4 kaffir dried lime leaves soaked in water until supple and sliced into strips
1 tsp oyster sauce
1 tbs light soy sauce
1 tbs fish sauce
2 tomatoes skinned and finely diced (at room temperature)
fresh coriander to garnish (I leave this out as I dislike fresh coriander)
juice of half a lime
small amount of freshly ground black pepper (preferably from kampot)
  • Heat a wok or frying pan on a high heat and add the vegetable oil
  • Add the garlic and ginger root and fry until just starting to brown.
  • Add the prawns, green peppercorns and shredded lime leaves and stir while cooking for 1 minute.
  • Add the oyster sauce, soy sauce, and fish sauce and cook just enough to heat the prawns through.
  • Add the diced tomato, coriander if using, lime juice, and a little ground black pepper and serve.
For a light lunch I just serve this with watercress but would serve rice too for a main meal.

So that is my chosen recipe but the others I have been having fun with include Beef steak with kampot pepper and lime dipping sauce from the Rick Stein book.
A home made fresh black pepper pasta carbonara where the freshly ground black pepper was incorporated into the pasta dough. Now this one I would not do again as I really don't think the pasta tasted any better than adding a good measure of freshly ground black pepper to the dish and it made the pasta turn a little greyish in tone!
And no photo for this but I also made this recipe for sichuan pepper orange truffles from the Peppermongers website. Peppermongers are another UK source of  various quality pepper spices recipes and information.

So that concludes my November Pepper Spice Trail

Tuesday, November 18, 2014

Kitchen Diary #7

Toad in the Hole is my idea of a perfect simple Sunday lunch at home; more than a snack but far less effort to make than a roast. It's success relies on first finding some good sausages, which seems like a constant quest for me. So often as soon as I find some sausages I really like, the makers change the formula, or stop coming to the markets where I could buy them so the search starts over again. These were new ones bought this week mail order from Albert Matthews who are based in Lancashire, UK. I will definitely buy them again as they were nice and lean, good porky flavour with no nasty gristly bits at all.

I have been experimenting with black pepper this week in practice for another blog challenge and this next dish is a fresh pasta carbonara with plenty of freshly ground black pepper added to the pasta dough.  I thought the pepper would make a good contrast to the otherwise slightly bland creaminess of the egg and cream sauce, which it did, but the pasta turned a rather unattractive greyish hue with all the pepper. So it tasted a lot better than it looked. I was also having another attempt at making fresh pasta with the pasta attachment I have for my Kenwood mixer, but for small amounts I really think it is easier to work by hand. I find it very difficult to get the texture of the pasta mix dry enough that it does not all stick together as it is extruded from the mixer attachment.
Another pepper dish that I have tried is this Rick Stein recipe for Cambodian marinated beef with lime and black pepper dipping sauce, which is made with Campot black pepper. The cut of beef was rump steak which stood up to the strong flavours and I skipped the peanut garnish as I didn't have any. It made a good Saturday night supper with minimal cooking needed at the end.

Bread & Cake Baking

My bread bake this week was this walnut loaf  which is made with a malted flour.
The recipe comes from an excellent bread book by Emmanuel Hadjiandreou who now teaches at the School of Artisan Food in Nottinghamshire, UK. They run an excellent range of courses in Baking, Cheesemaking, Butchery and much more, at both a professional and home cook level. I bought this book for the stollen recipe which I had heard was good but of course I have yet to try it even though I have had the book well over a year now.
Product Details

This week the BBC tv station ran their annual appeal for the Children in Need fundraiser and I took some bakes into work to raise a little money. I made jam dodger biscuits from this daily delicious jolly jammers blog recipe. The cookie base is a french style sable type biscuit which just melts in the mouth but is a little difficult to handle if not well rested and chilled. There are many delicious baking recipes on the Daily Delicious site including a number of cookies I want to try.
My other bake was a reworking of my halloween rice crispie monsters but this time just made up into squares with the spotty decoration associated with the Children in Need mascot Pudsey Bear.
We raised £50 and had a very sweet Friday so a good way to end the working week. Next week there will be much more chocolate on the blog!